North Pole Motor 4/4

Oil filter

Overpressure deforming the oil filter, immediately after starting the ice-cold engine, happened twice during the 2013 Polar Ice Ride. Once in Barrow and once on the frozen Beaufort Sea. A too thick oil couldn’t have caused it, because that poured out like it was water. Maybe the thin oil made it possible for the oil pump to build up a pressure that the ice-cold filter couldn’t handle. Every oil filter holds a valve or O-ring inside, which should open a bypass in case of overpressure. In extreme cold this can fail, with the result of blowing up the oil filter. After I winded a 220V – 100W resistance wire around it and pre-heated the filter it still occurred. Because this didn’t solve the problem, I’m going to try to have a special filter developed for the North Pole Ride. For sure I’ll take an original filter with me as a spare and make a hole on the inside beforehand. This way the oil can circulate without having to pass through the filter material itself and overpressure will be avoided.
If there is a company out there willing to do this for me, please inform me!

An original R1 alternator should be able to deliver the necessary amount of current required for the bike, 1 or 2 Xenon lights and the electric heated Klan clothing that I am going to use. Because on top of that a trace & track system will be built in and video cameras require power, while also the bike’s own battery needs to be charged, I think it will be wise to search for an additional system to generate current. Suggestions are welcome!
If there is a company out there willing to do this for me, please let me know!

A regular battery will hardly deliver any current when the temperature drops below -25°C/-13°F, while an Odyssey battery at -40°C/-40°F still brings more current as an original battery will bring in ideal surrounding temperature. That made them indispensable during my winter rides in Alaska. No doubt that I will use the Odyssey on my North Pole Challenge too. How exactly I am going to tackle that I don’t know yet. It could be that I mount an Odyssey in the bike and take a spare Odyssey with me. This is the most safe but also the most heaviest option. I can also keep using a stock battery and link up an Odyssey parallel, during the ‘cold-start’. By insulating the stock battery and to make sure it gets some engine warmth while riding, it could function normally. A test ride to a wintry North Cape could bring more clarity about what to do.

It will be far more difficult to ride on the polar cap than anything else that I have experienced during my other travel adventures. I expect to hit the ‘ground’ frequently. Only when the build of the bike will be in an advanced state, it will become clear where I can mount protectors that can take the beating. During the 2013 Polar Ice Ride Adventure it turned out that after I dropped the tall and heavy bike, there was no such thing as quickly putting it upright. It will be crucial that I think up something for that. Maybe I put a jack on both sides behind the protectors. When the bike is on its side, they enable me to bring that point further to the outside. This can function as a pivot point, just like my aluminium cases did during my world travels. They enabled me to pick up the bike in two stages. First, I pivoted the bike on the case until the rear wheel pressed against the ground again. After that, I tilted the bike up at one go. Exactly that short rest, in which I could brace myself again, that was ideal! Another possibility that takes shape in my mind is to build something to lower the bike through the rear shock unit and possibly also the front forks, on moments that this is necessary. On the bike’s rear, this should take place through an electric operated spindle. I have no idea yet how to make that happening on the front. In case you have a good idea, please let me know about it.
The option to temporarily lower the bike brings two major advantages.
• 1st That way the North Pole Bike doesn’t have that high point of gravity anymore, which will make it possible to pick it up in a reasonable way.
• 2nd Because of the lowered gravity point, it will be much easier to keep the bike in balance in case I have to walk besides it. This is particularly important when I have to manoeuvre the bike over ice floes or high, whimsically shaped pressure ridges, while controlling it with the throttle and clutch.

Extreme weather, falling down and tough terrain can cause all kind of breakdowns. Therefore, I will take an extensive assortment of spare parts with me. A small amount of that I will actually drag with me over the ice. The rest will stay in the basecamp and will, if necessary, get to me during provision.

A summary of the main parts that I expect to take with me to North America…
• Brake lever
• Master brake cylinder
• Brake pads
• Brake pedal
• Brake fluid

• Clutch lever
• Clutch cable
• Clutch and friction plates
• Clutch cover
• Clutch cover gasket

• Clip-ons

• Throttle cable set

• Gear shifter

• Batteries
• Fuses

• CDI-unit
• Regulator rectifier
• Pick-up coil
• Coils
• Spark plugs
• Spark plug caps

• Alternator
• Alternator cover
• Alternator cover gasket

• Radiator(s)
• Coolant

• Oil filter(s)
• 4T POLAR-Oil

• Chain
• Chain master link
• Sprockets

• Tyres
• Inner tubes
• Valves
• Rims
• Wheel bearings